domingo, 19 de abril de 2009

Friday April 10

After breakfast in the hotel, we checked out and were out the door by 11. The slightly colder, overcast weather made the idea of leaving Spain easier for mom and Bee. Making a final visit to the row of touristy souvenir shops, we turned around to say goodbye to the Plaza Mayor. Crossing through, we passed by one of the saddest street “performers” I’ve ever seen: an overweight middle-aged man dressed in complete Superman Halloween costume, frozen in a very unimpressive pose. Does this guy honestly expect to get money for this??

Peaking in and out of stores heading in the direction of our beloved Sunday Rastro, we stopped into a local café for nothing else but cafes con leche. Bekah very quickly became infatuated with the bartender, who, I must say, wore the faux-hawk quite well. She was able to get a small taste of one of the reasons I can’t stay in Spain forever…the men are mesmerizing.

We headed back to the hotel to grab their things, mine already being placed in my new room on the fifth floor. We both mentally and physically prepared ourselves for the long and inconvenient metro ride to the airport, but arrived without too much trouble. The long check-in line allowed us just enough time to grab a warm bacon and queso bocadillo (sandwich on a baguette) and say goodbye. Mom made me promise I’d come home May 1st. Somewhat reluctantly I promised I would.

The idea of spending the night alone in Madrid was exciting to me and I jumped back on the metro, eager to begin my independent solitude. I have to confess though the romanticized dream left me a little disappointed. The rest my day in Madrid is relatively uneventful. Not to mention the cold, rainy weather kept me inside a lot, neither was I too thrilled about going out to eat by myself. Instead, I grabbed a light dinner at a nearby fruit stand. I spent a peaceful evening in the hotel lobby, working on my 8-page Spanish paper for Independent Study, treating myself to a tall, 4-euro glass of white wine.

Thursday in Madrid

Another beautiful day! After gorging ourselves once again with the amazing hotel buffet, we hopped on the metro (just ten steps from the hotel!), we took the red line all the way to Las Ventas, the Bull Fighting Arena in Madrid. Finished in 1928, this lovely brick and tiled structure is the third largest bull ring in the world and apparently the most demanding too. Only the best matadors fight here. The crowds are so hard on the fighters that when a matador leaves here, he can fight anywhere else in the world. I was blown away by the sheer quantity of fights held: every Sunday October through April and then every single day in May. Each fight, there are three matadors and six bulls, leaving two for each of them. The stadium was beautiful and although kind of sad, it was interesting to learn more about their intensely unique tradition. At least they give the bulls to restaurants…?

After our tour, we jumped back on the metro and headed to Retiro Park. Around the corner we bought ourselves a small picnic and enjoyed laying out in the grass basking in the sunshine. People watching as usual, I couldn’t help but notice how much less annoying and bratty Spanish children are compared to those in America. I watched little boys and girls alike laughing and kicking miniature soccer balls in the sandy pathways, always returning to their parents when summoned. It all seemed unreal: the sun leaking through the leaves on the trees, giggling babies, and chirping birds. Then I turned to realize the couple behind me straddling one another, making out passionately. And real life slaps me in the face once again.

Although we could have easily spent hours lounging in that beautiful park, I had to return to the hotel to register for fall classes. What a downer. I really hate being reminded of the real work I’ll be returning to soon enough. As would be expected, the signing up process succeeded only to make me super cranky. This almost always happens since I never seem to get the ideal schedule so many of my friends seem to. Maybe I’ll end up escaping to Argentina or something instead…

I felt a lot better after a short nap, and we headed out once again to aimlessly explore Madrid in the perfect weather. We hopped on the metro and got off at the stop near the Hotel Ritz. Obviously it looked like a dump and we were very thankful we decided not to stay there--hohoho I’m hilarious. Meandering through roadside markets, we didn’t have to look far for a place we could have our daily café con leche (and brownie, this time!) break. I’m so proud of my girls for so quickly assimilating into this very important aspect of the Spanish lifestyle. One thing they never got used to, however, was the Spanish service. To-go food and drinks just simply do not exist in Spain. Getting a cup of coffee or a beer or pinchot, what have you, is seen as a social experience. Neither are the Spaniards in any sort of hurry. Even if you tell the waiter you are finished and he clears your plates, you won’t get the check until you ask for it. They never come back to check on the food, neither are they there to chat it up with you. You’re there to spend time with your friends, after all. Often, my mom thought the waiter was mad at me because of the lack of plastered smiles and small talk. And as soon as we had finished any meal, Bekah’s head shot around searching for our server. She could not believe that we could wait ten minutes before ever receiving the bill. I guess this is why the standard for pitiful tipping makes sense.

Leaving the café, we found the Botanical Gardens and enjoyed a leisurely stroll through this natural paradise in the heart of a bustling city. Afterwards, we walked back up Gran Via towards the hotel, stopping in a restaurant called "Canas y Tapas” for dinner. Tiled walls and suspended lighting, it looked like the place had been decorated in the turn of the century. We ordered croquetas, a skillet of fried eggs, peppers, and French fries, tostas (toasted bread with steak and brie), and bread, washing it all down with yet another pitcher of Sangria (I think may have Bekah accumulated an unhealthy love for this drink). Dropping a sleepy Rebekah off at the hotel, mom and I stopped by the fruit stand for the last time to pick up a 4-euro bottle of wine in honor of our last night together in Spain. With heavy hearts, we packed up our things and were in bed by 12:30 (I think that’s a record for the trip).

Wednesday in Toledo

Our second and last daytrip from Madrid, this time to Toledo (a little under an hour away). The man at the front desk of our hotel highly recommended that we take a bus tour since, being that we wouldn’t be able to see all of Toledo in one day alone. Our bus left just around the corner from our hotel at 9:15am. In a group of about 15 others, we visited the following sites:

 

-Catedral de Toledo

-La Iglesia de Santo Tome (home to famous Greco painting, “The Burial of Count Orgaz”)

-Old Jewish quarter with its narrow streets

-Sinagoga de Santa Maria la Blanca

-Iglesia de San Juan de los Reyes

-Museo Victorio Macho (incredible panoramic views of the city on el Rio Tajo!) Here we also saw a short film about the history of Toledo.

 

Breaking for lunch, Mom, Bee, and I found a cute outdoor café just outside of the old part of the city. Bekah with her tortilla francesa (much like an omlette), Mom with her steak and fries, and me with a ham, egg, and cheese sandwich, we enjoyed a leisurely meal complete with cafes con leche at the end.

 

Meeting up with the group again, we visited a factory of Damasquinado, the famous handicraft of Toledo. It was really impressive to see how these gold and black plates/jewelry/etc. are made and to know they will never rust or decay. Finishing our tour with the most spectacular panoramic view from the top of a cliff, we made our way back to Madrid by 5:30pm.

After regrouping in the hotel, we headed back out again. We walked around a bit and window shopped, only stopping for dinner at a delicious Mexican Restaurant near La Plaza Mayor. At 8:30pm, we had the restaurant to ourselves, as the dinner crowd wouldn’t be showing up for another hour or so. Stuffed with nachos and guacamole, steak and chicken fajitas, and of course margaritas, we thought it only appropriate to also stop for ice cream at Pelazzo on Gran Via before returning to the hotel.

With no luck finding an English movie (or English channel of any kind) on the TV, we turned to watch my recently downloaded Itunes movie “Vicky Christina Barcelona.” If you haven’t seen this movie already, DON’T! The only redeeming quality of this ridiculously meaningless film for me was seeing places I had visited in Barcelona like Sagrada Familia and the Gaudi apartments. Our viewing quickly turned into a Mystery Science Theater reenactment. 

Tuesday in Mad Town

Just realizing that breakfast was included in our room, we made sure to take advantage of the beautiful buffet before leaving for our daily adventures. First on our list was a tour of Palacio Real. Although I had already seen this on our excursion to Madrid, I was more than willing to go through again and very eager to show Bekah and mom. It was no surprise that they loved it and were blown away by the extravagance of every room, just as I had been.

We walked back up towards La Plaza Mayor, we stopped into Cruz Blanca for a delicious menu del dia. We each started off with paella mixta and bread, then carne picado for me, grilled fish for mom, and grilled chicken and fries for Bee. All this went well with our shared bottle of white. With our bill under 30 euros, we rolled out of the restaurant in efforts to walk off some of our obscene consumption.

We were just passing the Puerta del Sol when a pigeon attacked me. Minding my own business, a possessed bird swooped down and nosedived for my face. I grabbed onto my mom’s arm and ducked backwards to avoid the collision. The force of this attack was so great, however, that I was forced down in the middle of the sidewalk. Never before has a bird forced me to the ground or made me the laughing stalk of the general public.

We occupied much of the remainder of the afternoon meandering in and out of shops, Rebekah DETERMINED to find some Spanish boots in the allotted week.

Returning to the hotel, we showered, rested, and made the short walk down to street to Donor Kabap for dinner. Afterwards, we dropped Bekah off at the hotel and mom and I began the search for ice cream. We found Farggi in the Plaza Mayor and each helped ourselves to two generous scoops: one of dulce de leche and the other of some variety of coffee. She had already adapted to my gluttonous Spanish lifestyle. We finished the evening by walking down the other side of Gran Via this time to see the beautiful luminous fountains in Plaza Espana. 

Monday in the 'Manc

The next morning, we woke up early, hopped on the metro and headed for the bus station. I could not WAIT to show them around Salamanca. After a quick breakfast of pastries and cafés con leche and te con leche, we headed down to the platform and loaded our bags below the bus. When I showed the tickets to the driver, however, he looked very confused and flipped through his other stack of ticket stubs to compare. Yep, I had accidentally bought tickets for Tuesday instead. In my excitement and haste to purchase them, I had read the European calendar (starting on Monday instead of Sunday) wrong and mistook the “M” in Martes (Tuesday) for the “M” in Monday instead. Que verguensa (how embarrassing). Thankfully, there was no problem in swapping the tickets for the 10am bus an hour later that same day.

Arriving in Salamanca around 12:30pm, we made the thirty-minute walk to the apartment. When we walked in the door around 1:15, I was disappointed to discover that madre wasn’t home, only cranky old Luis and the maid. When I was informed that Ascencion was out getting her hair done, we dropped off our bags and planned to return in about an hour. As we left the apartment to walk around a bit, I couldn’t help but remember the confused look Isabel had had on her face during our conversation. Ascencion HAD been expecting us, hadn’t she? Peeking in and out of shops like Ale Hop, Calzedonia, and Mango, we slowly made our way to La Plaza Mayor.

 

We returned to the apartment around 2:20, hoping that this had given madre ample time to get home from her beauty session. This time talking to Isabel, I was sure that there was no extra food prepared nor had madre mentioned that we were coming. My heart sunk into my stomach, where madre’s famous paella mixta should have already been. But how could I be upset with the woman for being old and forgetful? I said goodbye and that we’d be back later in the afternoon to say hello. Just as we were leaving, however, madre made her grand entrance (adorable permed haircut and all) through the elevator door. Double kisses all around, we had barely finished the introductions when her never-ending rant began. She had thought I said we’d be leaving Madrid around 12 instead of arriving in Salamanca at that time. She thought we’d be coming by sometime later in the afternoon, not for siesta. Although she made her understanding of the matter abundantly clear, I still have a bit of a hard time believing she could have thought this since for over a week, we had talked about the siesta lunch we would have that day. She insisted that she whip something up anyways and that we stay for siesta. Of course I told her this was ridiculously unnecessary and that we’d eat out and come back later. It’s a fact that Spanish women are the feistiest, most stubborn creatures on the planet. She wouldn’t let it go. This prompted a near-yelling match between us (in Spanish, of course). The look on my biological mother’s face was priceless. Who is this girl arguing with this old Spanish woman and what has she done with my daughter? Somehow, I finally “won” and Ascencion conceded to us promising to come back later in the afternoon. I felt so badly and awkward at the misunderstanding, she must have said, “I feel horrible, I am so embarrassed” at least 50 times.

 

At this point, Ascension had gone into her room and I started to give my Meyer women a quick tour of the place. Not one minute later and madre was out in the hallway arguing with me again. She openly fastened the buttons on her Hawaiian moo-moo, allowing my mom, sister, and I a generous view of her large, white, lacy brassiere. Oh, Ascense. But she couldn’t accept defeat. We were literally FORCED to stay and eat siesta lunch. WELL OK, IF YOU INSIST. We had Spanish tortilla, tomatoes, bread, fried Merluza (fish) with lemon juice, melon, and chunky monkey Ben and Jerry’s ice cream. Despite madre’s incessant apologies about not having ample time or ingredients to make her paella, the food was delicious as always.

 

Lunch over, Ascencion offered us places to lie down for the expected siesta naps and further hoped that we would be sleeping in the house that night as well. What a woman, I tell ya. Kindly declining the offer, we exchanged gifts instead. Mom had literally filled an entire suitcase with gifts from the States for Ascension and the fam. I hope I am half this wonderful and generous someday. I beamed as I presented the Georgetown sweatshirt for Isabel, Guirradelli chocolates and other candies, Biscotti, Starbucks coffee, and mug for Luis, Barbies and Barbie outfits for Lucia and Yolanda, and sheets, towels and serving tray for madre. The entire time I wasn’t sure what Ascencion would do first: start bawling or faint. She told me to tell my mom she was crazy and that she shouldn’t have brought all these things. Once again, she was so embarrassed when she presented my mom and Bekah with fashionable black and white long chunky necklaces and an extra set of Salamantino earrings for my mom. I couldn’t believe she was embarrassed for giving US gifts in her own house.

 

All told, the visit was a grand success. I got a great deal of practice translating and it was clear that my two madres really loved meeting each other. What I probably will never understand is how cute and sweet Luis seemed to Bekah and mom. They legitimately liked him. During lunch, Bekah made a comment about an attractive man on the TV, to which madre replied in Spanish, “Well, if you like the handsome Spanish men, then you’ll love Luis!” HA.

 

As promised, we left to do a little shopping for Rebekah’s sake, but not without stopping at Café del Arte for cafés con leche first. I was thrilled to see my bartender welcome us in. Almost immediately after introducing him to Bekah and my mom, he proceeded to tell my mom (obvi in Spanish) that I’m a bad girl who always comes into the café to drink whiskey and hard liquor. Nice, bud. Good thing they can’t understand Spanish. He continued to say that of course he was only joking and that I’m a great girl and he only serves good people in his café. I WILL NEVER UNDERSTAND HOW WE BECAME BEST FRIENDS OVERNIGHT.

 

We spent the remainder of the afternoon walking past the cathedrals and Puente Romano over the Rio Tormes. I showed them where I take classes at the University, Casa de las Conchas, the wall with the Salamantino frog, among other semi-famous sites. The visit wouldn’t have been complete without churros and chocolate at Valor. An obvious hit, we returned to the apartment to grab our bags and hail a cab to the bus station for our 8pm bus home. Almost immediately, madre presented us with a huge packed lunch to take with us, very concerned that we would otherwise be missing dinner. It was complete with 4 pieces of fruit and 9 small “brick bocadillos” from Gil, the pastry shop next door. Like I’ve said before, a heart of pure gold. 

Walking home off the metro around 11, we stopped in a café to pick up a bottle of wine. Mom walked in and immediately began asking the bartender about his wine selection…in English of course. He, along with his various barstool customers, only responded with blank, confused countenances. Yes it had been a long and tiring day for Kay, but I’m not sure she ever fully conceptualized that by being in Spain, people actually speak Spanish, not English. Once the mother duck, always the mother duck I guess. Sarah to the rescue again, we brought the 12-euro bottle of red Rioja back to the hotel where I enjoyed the most expensive (by far!) bottle of wine I had ever and likely will ever drink in Spain.

 

jueves, 16 de abril de 2009


Meyer women in front of Palacio Real

Puente Romano in Salamanca

Puerta de Alcala at night, Madrid.

Dinner on Gran Via, Madrid.

Rubber Fish Cafe in Plaza Mayor, Madrid

RASTRO in Madrid

Night out in Madrid with our sisters :)

Our "door" at Bull's Hostel.
Please also notice the public storage closet to the left.